| If you are in the mood to tour Europe, you should | | | | other buildings of interest. The medieval district of |
| really consider the Latium region of central western | | | | San Pellegrino is quite well preserved and definitely |
| Italy on the Tyrrhenian Sea. Latium, also known as | | | | worth visiting. Viterbo boasts a spa with a huge |
| Laszio, is the region that includes Italy's capital Rome, | | | | limestone pool of very hot water. Its volcanic mud is |
| the Eternal City. Given the number of articles | | | | highly recommended for those who like that sort of |
| describing the multiple pleasures of Rome, we will | | | | thing. I am told that the Enoteca La Torre has an |
| write about the lesser-known attractions of Latium. | | | | extensive wine list. The Tre Re restaurant has been |
| This article focuses on Latium west of Rome. A | | | | a fixture of Viterbo's old town since 1622. |
| companion article describes Latium east of Rome. | | | | The nearby village of Bagnaia was the personal |
| We'll start our tour at Cerveteri about 25 miles (40 | | | | fiefdom of the bishops of Viterbo for centuries. It is |
| kilometers) northwest of Rome. We'll head along the | | | | best known for its magnificent Sixteenth Century |
| sea northwest past Rome's port, Civitvecchia, and | | | | water gardens, Villa Lante. There are two sets of |
| stop at Tarquinia. Then we'll travel inland (northeast) | | | | buildings, built for two very different bishops, one of |
| to Tuscania, Viterbo, Bagnaia, and then southeast to | | | | whom was known for living simply. Highlights include a |
| the village of Caprarola. We then head almost directly | | | | Moorish fountain, a boxtree maze, and two casinos. |
| north to finish our tour at Bomarzo not far from the | | | | Neighboring Caprarola is the site of the Sixteenth |
| Umbrian border. (It might be a bit shorter to go from | | | | Century Farnese Palace. This Palace was built for |
| Bagnaia to Bomarzo and then to Caprarola but as | | | | Cardinal Alessandro II Farnese, nephew of Pope Paul |
| you will see, we have our reasons for following the | | | | III, within ten years of construction of the Villa Lante. |
| first itinerary.) Before starting this tour we introduce | | | | The two sites were built by the same architect, but |
| a onetime major player, the Etruscans. | | | | in a very different style. Here you go to see the |
| The Etruscans were a people who dominated large | | | | palace, although its park is nothing to sneer at. In |
| parts of Italy including Latium from an unknown | | | | fact, in many parts of the world, the Farnese Palace |
| prehistoric period up until the Roman Empire. We | | | | park would merit a visit on its own. We suggest that |
| don't know much about their origins, language, | | | | you see the Villa Lante and the Farnese Palace and |
| culture, or their way of life. Much of our knowledge | | | | compare. One thing is certain, the Sixteenth Century |
| about this formerly powerful people can be seen on | | | | Italian upper class sure knew how to live. |
| our tours of Latium. By the way, one of the most | | | | You probably haven't seen anything like Bomarzo. |
| famous books about the Etruscans, Sketches of | | | | The village's main attraction is yet another Sixteenth |
| Etruscan Places and other Italian Essays (1932), was | | | | Century garden, alternately known as Bosco Sacro |
| written by the British Author D. H. Lawrence, better | | | | (Sacred Grove) and Bosco di Mostri (Monster's |
| known for another work, Lady Chatterly's Lover. | | | | Grove). It was built by a hunchbacked patron of the |
| Cerveteri, population about thirty thousand, was once | | | | arts to honor his deceased wife. Some say that she |
| the Etruscan city of Caere. UNESCO has classified | | | | died of heart failure after seeing the park. For |
| Cerveteri as a World Heritage Site because of its | | | | centuries this park was neglected but now has been |
| Etruscan tombs. It is the largest ancient necropolis in | | | | restored. The dozens of monster statues including |
| the Mediterranean area. These tombs, and there are | | | | Hanging House, the Dragon, the Ogre, and the |
| over a thousand of them, date from the Ninth | | | | Etruscan Bench with its inscription "You who travel |
| Century B.C. to the Third Century B. C. Other local | | | | the world, in search of great and beautiful wonders, |
| sights worth seeing include the Rocca castle, the | | | | come here, where there are horrible faces, elephants, |
| Church of Santa Maria Maggiore and the Sixteenth | | | | lions, bear and dragons" seem strewn about aimlessly. |
| Century Palazzo Ruspoli, not to be confused with a | | | | This is probably as good a place as any to end your |
| Palace of the same name in Florence. The nearby | | | | tour of western Latium. |
| burg of Ceri is at the top of a fortified plateau. Its | | | | What about food? Latium cuisine is one of |
| main attraction is the Romanesque Church of the | | | | abundance, perhaps in part because of the volcanic |
| Madonna of Ceri, built on a site originally dedicated to | | | | soil. The best cuts of meat were reserved for the |
| the worship of the goddess Vesta. In 1980 during | | | | rich and the poor had to be satisfied with the rest, |
| renovations, Twelfth Century frescos of Biblical | | | | for example: feet, heart, kidneys, tongue, and tripe. |
| scenes were uncovered. | | | | Let's not forget the pasta, often considered among |
| Tarquinia whose population numbers about sixteen | | | | the best in Italy. Fettuccine Alfredo comes from this |
| thousand is the site of about six thousand Etruscan | | | | region. Let's suggest a sample menu, one of many. |
| tombs, some of which are decorated by wall | | | | Start with Carciofi alla Guidea (Deep fried Artichokes). |
| paintings. The National Museum housed in the | | | | Then try Porchetta (Roast Suckling Pig). For dessert |
| Fifteenth Century Palazzo Vitelleschi is known for its | | | | indulge yourself with Ciambella (Pastry with |
| archeological contents. Tarquinia is home to a | | | | Sweetened Grapes and Carmelized Chestnuts). Be |
| cathedral, several churches including two from the | | | | sure to increase your dining pleasure by including local |
| Twelfth Century (San Martino and St. John the | | | | wines with your meal. |
| Baptist), the Palazzo dei Priori, and several medieval | | | | We'll conclude this article with a quick look at Latium |
| towers. | | | | wine. More than four out of five bottles produced |
| Tuscania, population somewhat under eight thousand, | | | | here are white. There are twenty five DOC wines. |
| was founded almost three thousand years ago but | | | | DOC stands for Denominazione di Origine Controllata, |
| the area itself has been populated for perhaps eight | | | | which may be translated as Denomination of |
| or ten thousand years. Unfortunately its medieval city | | | | Controlled Origin, presumably a high-quality wine, |
| walls were largely destroyed in 1971 earthquake but | | | | twenty of them white. However, only about 6% of |
| they have been repaired and the interior is nicely | | | | Latium wine is so classified. Frankly, the region is not |
| landscaped. Like its neighbors, Tuscania is the site of | | | | known for its wine. It once was; in the distant past |
| many Etruscan tombs including the "Tomb of the | | | | Falernum, a Latium red was the hit of Ancient Rome. |
| Queen", a series of labryinths containing about thirty | | | | Who knows, perhaps one day the region will regain |
| tunnels. If you are like me, you prefer seeing other | | | | its former glory when it comes to wine. In the |
| sights. Tuscania will not disappoint you. For example, | | | | meantime, there is lots to see and lots to eat. And |
| you can tour several churches of great architectural | | | | plenty of fine Italian wines are available. North of |
| interest and many, many palaces. And you can visit | | | | Latium is Umbria, and north of Umbria is Tuscany. |
| the National Archeological Museum, but many of the | | | | Cantina Colacicchi's Torre Ercolana is a Cabernet |
| displays are tomb-related. | | | | Sauvignon-Merlot blend from Latium is highly |
| Viterbo was formerly the popes' favorite residence. | | | | recommended but I haven't tasted it yet. |
| Its historic old center is among the best preserved | | | | Levi Reiss has authored or co-authored ten computer |
| towns of central Italy. Make sure to see the Palazzo | | | | and Internet books, but between you and me, he |
| dei Papi (Papal Palace) and the Romanesque Cathedral | | | | prefers fine Italian or other wine, accompanied by |
| of San Lorenzo, built by the Lombards over an | | | | the right foods and good company. He knows what |
| Etruscan Temple dedicated to Hercules. This building | | | | dieting is, and is glad that for the time being he can |
| also served as a Papal residence. Pope John XXI died | | | | eat and drink what he wants, in moderation. He loves |
| here in 1277 when the ceiling collapsed as he was | | | | teaching computer classes at an Ontario |
| sleeping. The Plaza di San Lorenzo contains several | | | | French-language community college. |